Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Review

Gary Vaynerchuk invites Toby Hill to talk about the effects of the forest fires on the grapes in Anderson Valley during the 2008 vintage. They taste through three different 2008 Pinots from his winery, Phillips Hill Estates.

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Review Gary: Hello everybody and welcome to Wine Library TV I am your host Gary Vaynerchuk and this my friends, is the Thunder show a.k.a the internet’s most passionate wine program and before I introduce this wonderful guest who I think brought me a present. I want to give a huge shout out to my mother. Tamara Vaynerchuk it is her birthday today and as much as you guys love when my dad is sitting in the seat and he has huge of an impact as he has had to my life, nobody has a bigger impact on my life than my mom. She is the greatest mom of all time. I know you are going to get comments saying that their mom is the best but just not true because my mom is the best. And I see much you can say ready and she is just a wonderful human being and I am very grateful that the world gave me her as my mom and I want to wish her a wonderful birthday today. And also couple of more shout-outs to Collin and Jackson Hughesbands. It;s both their birthdays on April 28th and 29th and it is Jackson’s 2nd birthday. Collin you must have Jackson on your birthday pretty cool and then finally you see this July 10th huge party here at Wine Library. We are going to have a CinderellaWine.com party. So the wines we done on Cinderella wine. We are going to tape an episode and I am thinking about taping like a group episode so everybody that comes – be better to sit down with you. I don’t what I am going to do? But it is going to be iconic so if you have ever thought about coming to Wine Library, Saturday, July 10th is the time to come. We are going to be doing some tastings, food and wine downstairs. We are going to do some Wine Library T.V action, we are going to hang and we are all be going to dinner probably in New York. And do about say probably I want to stay in New York and you can train in here, we will do some shuttles. Start planning, start leaving comments, carpooling all out that is all I got to say. Male: This is for your mom I am sorry not for you. Gary: Not for me? For mom right, why don’t you tell the Vayner nation who you are? Toby: I am Toby Hill; I am the owner of wine maker Phil Whole State Winery out in Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. And we have three wines here and you are welcome. Gary: Now Toby how long have you been in the wine business? Toby: Since 2002 was the first vintage. Gary: And how that happens, tell me about 2001? Toby: Well 2002 actually 2002 was the year that four barrels of wine basically rolled down in my driveway. I thought I have frap them and actually start making wine and finishing it off with a wine maker. Who actually, I actually – first four barrels off, he did not want to get the branding and finishing and so on. So I decided, well anything I got a good deal on four barrels of pinot noir or let’s make a label and get it on a bottle. Gary: How did you come up with the name, Anita Hill Park? Toby: Grandmother’s main name, family business. Gary: And so what were you doing prior to making wine? Toby: I have always had artist and businesses; I had another company where I actually make color formulas for an Italian Vinyl plaster line that I distributed around the country. Always been an artist, still am. Gary: Where did you grow up? Toby: I grew up actually born in San Francisco, and grew up in Manhattan. Gary: No kidding? Toby: I actually back visiting, back seeing my brother and my mother. And then back to California and back to New York and By coastal and actually just settled about 2000, I came back to California. Gary: So some of the hardcore maniacs here will recognize that I reviewed one of your wines maybe couple of years ago now. I don’t even know how I got it, I am not sure, I can’t recall from if I am carrying it. Were you sent it or somebody sent, I feel almost like somebody sent it – I don’t really recall, so you know by any chance? Toby: You know I think it was a distributor. Gary: So we did an episode, a lot of people know who watch the show and I am a pretty big fan of Anderson Valley. And I think – I am going on memory right now I mean I do recall. I think I really like it. Toby: You were pretty crazy about it. Gary: I remember --. Toby: It was in 2005 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir. Gary: So I remember went bonkers about it and I think I encourage people to get – I just remember this thing one of three of four producers that I acted like this but can you tell us the story about that. Like what was that like, I know the vayniacs, they come through and we find things like this did was a big port. What happen there? Toby: That what when I first find out actually who you were. I was in my email turning Las Vegas laughing. It was a bottle between two pinots of Essential Entago Pinot Noir it was the Hagler Hearns battle between the two pinots. Gary: And so what happen did you have a big response – so what happen, give me the great story of like you just comes to your Email one day. And it is like, 136 sites --. Toby: I got all the way down and phone calls and just – and I just did know what happen. Gary: And then you look and you are like this guy? I mean you had to have that feeling right? Toby: But it I loved it, it was on my website, I am posting it and sent it out. Gary: Do you still, did you have people like randomly for the years. Like say “hey I saw on Wine Library TV and that is why things like that?” How about distributors, did the distributors contact you as well. Toby: Always takes the little review for distributor finally calls. Gary: So it nice, so I feel good about that, so that was a nice thing for the business. Toby: Definitely, thanks. Gary: You did it, I mean you know I really enjoy it. And so these are the 08’s? Toby: These are the 08’s. Gary: And so tell us a little bit about the 08 Anderson Valley vintage. How is it different from the vintages since you have been in there? Toby: Very different and may never see it again, 200 lighting strikes and Mendocino County in end of July, early August. Gary: Crazy right? Toby: Crazy, it has never happened, 27 days of smoke filled valley. And it was – we had a little bit of apprehension thinking maybe you know something might be affected but pretty much everybody was in denial. And just I went around and just made one like I always had. Gary: And how do you feel it affected the vintage? Toby: There are some vineyards were different than others not every vineyard had lighting strike, I mean for me if it didn’t taste like looking a wet ashtray. I little smoked meat, a little gaminess which for me what the enough it had. A lot of people decided will they have to strip and filter or reverse osmosis and go through of treatments. I decided to, I just didn’t have the heart though to really strip and treat it after trials and tasting and just for me. It just lack the heart and soul for wine so again it was light which it was for me. I am going to work with it and I decided to make a blend. What we have here are two different blends. Gary: Let’s go to the first wine. So wait a minute, so this is your artwork on every label? Toby: Yes. Gary: So is that your first passion like drawing and things to that nature? Toby: That was never had a passion for wine really. Gary: And how about now? Toby: Now I do but actually--. Gary: So this is the ring of fire right? 65 from Corby Vineyard and 35 from Toulouse right 38 bones, 14.2 alcohol content Anderson Valley and so-. Toby: So I had a passion to create and it always make stuff, I was an artist went in wine country and make wine. Gary: Who were so of your favorite producers in the Anderson Valley? Toby: Right now my neighbor actually Jason Drew who lives upon Grimwood Road. About two miles down the road, good guy. Toulouse Vineyard, I buy grapes – been buying grapes from Burne for since the 05 that was the first vintage the ’05 Toulouse the famous ’05 Toulouse. Gary: Did Burne watch the video? Toby: Burne respond. Gary: So let get into this wine tell me a little bit about what you are seeing here. I mean you know the nose does have a little bit of smokiness but you know nothing that makes me thinking out of the ordinary kind of pinot does. You are kind of lucky being a pinot producer the kind of all hax into the you wants it about those varietals anyway. Toby: Certainly, more so in Ceres, you always get the more smoky characters. Pinot noir have complex they are and every year they are a little different and for me it is a little thread in the weave of tinge of a little smoke, I was really happy with. Gary: Give me some really nice like kind of like cranberry new ounces on the back on the nose as well. And definitely some perky tones pretty nice nose, I mean aromatically this wine is pretty out there that you know it is expressing it self, I like the nose. Alright let’s give a whirl. Only 150 cases produced of these wine, really aggressive tenets on the mid-palate which I like. Once again not even remember what the hell I said the first time we tasted these wines. Obviously different vintages this is not from the same exact vineyard it is blend up some of that vineyard. What strikes me about this wine and I think now it is calling for that it how smooth your pinots are. I mean this is extremely silky on the palate the flavor provides a pretty intense. There is some groove flavors in this wine which I like quite a bit as a vegetable had are you picking up on some of the kind of like almost. I wouldn’t say green bean but almost subtle like bell pepper, new ones on the back end I like it for me it is quite appealing flavor profile. And I do like some of this kind of like it is almost meaty for me on the finish. Toby: Lot of game I think. Gary: Quite a bit and to me it is kind of like if we went out and now shot a deer and rip and bit into it aggressively like men do. I am just kidding I don’t support any killing – but you know it is definitely game. What others are sleeping up here. Toby: Well I think there is a little Bing cherry maybe. Gary: You know I get this really interesting cranberry flavor second time again right back to it. Especially on the finish, that is a tails off. Toby: You know what, you know for me when I am actually designing wines and this is the first time that I actually thought I was designing a wine. It was about getting the best wine in the bottle this year, it wasn’t just a vineyard select designate where. Gary: You decided to blend. Toby: And ushering up vineyard to the bottle, this was the time to really get creative and pull out the whole thing. Artistic palate and for me designing wine it is about the mouth feel not necessarily the flavors are there. And obviously it the fruit but for me I how it really affects the tongue the mid palate. The beginning and the end the finish is where it works for me. Gary: Then you must be happy with my opening line. Because the mouth feel on these wines is really, I mean that was just extremely smooth. And just great heavy yet light if that makes sense just there is aggressiveness of flavor, you can feel the viscosity of the wine but the silkiness and then leave you clung it. It wasn’t there’s residue leftover it was just silky smooth wick weight, pretty powerful very good wine. Toby: With a lot of length it just one of those wines they just want to keep in your mouth for about five seconds and just don’t even swallow. Gary: Let’s move on, we have here now the Bison tree 40 U.S bone, 100% French oak, is see there is a little note here only 40 cases made of this, 40 U.S bones, tell me about this and why Bison tree? Toby: Well the Bison tree is actually the name of the – it is not actually a place or anything. It is actually slang it the Bison tree means everything is fine and bottling the native tongue of bottling they actually have their own language developed in Booneville. It is a lingo historical folklore lingo and Bison tree as if you were riding around n a horse in a nice day breathing in the air. Gary: And you would just say Bison tree. Toby: And then you can say where harp and sip slow lope on Bison Tree which means we are drinking wine in a nice day. Gary: Do you know this entire language? Pretty you know a couple of sayings very nice. So what made you decide to name this Bison Tree? Toby: Well in a challenging year where everything wasn’t so fine this turned out to be fine for me. Gary: Both wines right off the back are I am just being reminded now what made me fall in love with this wine maker and the style. I just have this amazing palate feel both wines I should mention have some aggressiveness in that. There is a tang in this wine but the acidity and the tannins still very young wine so I would say right off the back I am enjoying this quite a bit. And again almost was she wasn’t here so that you can see like I am not being nice to the nice man. But the wine are extremely good but I would say right off the bat both of them and this one even more so I guess which is why ripping on it. This feels quite young to me the tannins are pretty darn aggressive and the mid palate almost shuts down for me as I taste it. Are you finding this kind of default? Toby: It doesn’t have the mid palate as the ring of fire. Gary: But I could tell it is there it literally shut on me and I was like that was weird. And kind of aggressive and I was like back up Bison Tree. Are we just supposed be like chill? Toby: It is definitely, in a tasting room where I really like to see how the public really likes the wine and then right now it is a young it needs t o develop. As is it be in the tasting room. Gary: I could see that that is why, I kind of went there around to that way but you know they are my first priority though I love you. I think that this but that being said forget the tasting room, forget a lot of people would be turned off by this wine. I think this wine shows all, this is textbook this wine should be put away. I don’t think your brand or you have a long enough pedigree yet to really know what is going to happen. You know this makes me feel comfortable about certain wine makers or wineries. When I tell a customer, you know put this away for 10 years it will get better. Because we have seen it happen, this becomes a very curious wine for me I am very excited to try this, three to five years for now and see what happens there. Is it your intuition that does open up is that you’re whole where you were on that? Toby: You know it is intuition through experience from vintage to vintage. Gary: Who have you worked with to learn the wine trade? Toby: Well that there was the wine maker the first wine maker that was John Pepe who I bought four barrels. So the deal was let’s learn everything you know, most are seller practices. Gary: What the people in your life think about this move into the wine business? Toby: They are my entire best friend so it was a feel, as any artist or artistic expression it really goes in from the feel. From the heart from the gut in any form of artistic expression cooking you name it. Gary: So knowing a lot of artist especially because I am so deep into the technology world. And I know a lot of developers in the internet people has that similar DNA how was the business part of this business been treating you? Toby: The business has been, it is still fun. Gary: You like it? You are not an artist that doesn’t enjoy the business side? Toby: I love the business side. Gary: Have you been entrepreneurial in your whole life or something you are in to? Toby: Misty. Gary: Did you sell lemonade? Toby: Lemonade, no. Gary: Pictures? Toby: Pictures, yes. Gary: Did you draw picture when you are in Salem. Toby: It was until probably the mid-80’s so I wasn’t too small then. Gary: Alright let us go to our last wine. I like this picture, we got the Oppenlander Vineyard, 42 U.S bones, 600 cases. So actually this is fascinating to me the wines have gone up two bucks a bottle and production has gone up. So as where is normally the least produced the 150 caser would be off in time that one would be the most expensive not in your world. Toby: Mine world isn’t that normal to tell you the truth, it is probably little weird. Gary: That is just how you roll? Toby: That is how I roll. Gary: I like that and so why is the pricing the way it is, how do you come to prices, got a again or because how much the fruit cost you? Toby: A little combination of both you know introducing new wines sometimes I like to bring it in a little bit lower price. Once it has been established like the Oppenlander the first vintage in 2002. Gary: So it got a pedigree of following. Toby: Huge pedigree of following. Gary: How was your direct to consumer business right now? Toby: It is great, 80% retail. Gary: How many states were you in, how many states in the country can people find your wines not a lot right? Toby: Now maybe two. Gary: Two, Californian and New Jersey? Toby: Not even in New Jersey. Gary: How the hell get the wine – I am dying t o figure out how I got them. So you are not even, we don’t even--. Toby: I had a distributor back then T. Edwards. Gary: T. Edwards I love Tom he is a good dude, who you worked with? Toby: Actually Fred Dexheimer he brought me in. Gary: Freddy Dex got you, I love Freddy Dex. Toby: He loves my wines. Gary: He is back in Vinotino I think right? Or he is gone again? Toby: I think he is again, he discover that Bar Americana had that was only restaurant in New York is Bar Americana and he discovered in south of town and went all over town. Gary: No kidding so where you now? California? Toby: California, possibly Michigan, distribution just fell apart in the last couple of years especially un-famous and not known. Gary: You are famous in the Vayniacs. Toby: They do, they love me. Gary: Let me say something real, tell me a little bit about this, you have a 150 cases has this been release and available again? Toby: Yes it has the ring of fire. Gary: Is it sold out? Toby: No, it has only been released for about two weeks. Gary: Get a lot of you on the mailing list. Get it that is it anyway let’s get into this. Toby: Now this vineyard is outside of Anderson Valley, this is a little Hamlet it is not in the Anderson Valley. It as area called Comship which is a really interesting up and coming growing region. Not many vineyards are producing from there because they are only core vineyards. Gary: Core vineyards in Comship what name they planted? Toby: Pinot Noir only. Gary: Only Pinot so far and it is right outside of Anderson? Toby: Just east about three miles but it is in the fog zone it is in the Mendocino coastal fog zone about ten miles inland. Gary: So I am going to assume this is doing better than Bison Tree in the tasting room because it is definitely more appropriate for the palate. It got great length it is pretty darn juicy. Toby: That is the characteristics a lot in there. Gary: It kind of smoky too in the back end. Toby: Slightly. Gary: And even when you getting on the finish I am getting kind of an almost believe or not if I didn’t about characteristic I would never say for pinot would be mint. But I almost get this peppermint the kind of minty thing on the back end. Toby: You are not the first one who said that. Gary: Is that right? What other person did you use? But I would tell you this is a very unusual pinot up here. You know I was sitting here and we are just talking and then like in the back on my own like weird heights mark as vineyard there is kind of minty kind of component on the backend of this wine. Which is quite fascinating and very appealing for a pinot? Toby: Well that is what being unusual and just is where I want to be. Gary: Tell me your favorite thing about the wine world? What you just love about it? Toby: Well I would say it is probably around harvest the adrenaline rush – the challenge they are actually the exploration. Probably the most exploration from vintage to vintage is where I really learn and absorb and take everything I know and absorb like a sponge and that is where all thing and develop what is going to happen in the next vintage as a president from the vintages before. Gary: You have asked to take and review it in front of the wine maker. We try it and experiment so I will do it and it is kind of interesting once again just always tells me price has no impact on quality. I am in love with this wine, I think this is spectacular you know what I feel about this wine to begin with because we review it long before we knew where we even got it I think. This is like a 93+ point pinot for me, this is absolute spectacular the ring of fire is phenomenal. You know I am being seduced by the fact that I have this limited edition little thing here but do I have to call it the limited edition probably without even knowing. I love this 93+ I would next go with the Oppenlander, I think it is also extremely good a little bit more masculine. A little bit more intense and that wild almost minty like finish more like a 90+ type wine for me. And the Bison tree is the least favorite of the bunch I think it is showing the youngest which is something worth talking about and there is something going on over the big palate that I am concern about. More like an 88+ point wine for you guys at home so that is kind. How do you fall, I mean they are all your children, do you like them for different reason or you are able to kind of rate them in your own mind as well. Toby: I definitely agree, right now my favorite would be the ring of fire. Gary: It is literally spectacular. Toby: And I just know the Bison tree is going to take time, it is going to be a late boomer. Gary: You going to have to be patient with it, it is like one of those the kids, sometimes. They are only good until they are 25. Toby: It is another living organism and so it is fun to really keep tasting and taste. Gary: And see where it goes. Gary: Are you going to do a Bison tree next year? Well ’09 did you make a Bison Tree ’09? Toby: Right now I just have all, I got the other wine in barrels and they are single vineyard and I will decide in the next two, three, four months from now to see where we are going to go. Gary: Thank you so much my friend. Toby: You are welcome. Gary: The guest that always gets then asks the question of the day. Any question you want ask the vainer nation should be about wine, art, life, food, the New York Jets, whatever you are in the mood for. Fire away and ask a question. Toby: Well it is going to stick but what we are talking about regards to pinot noir. Your palate, does your palate changed recently is you interested in something that is a little different, something unusual? Where is your palate these days? Gary: Actually that would be great to know, that is a good update for me too. Lookers come out, support this guy. You definitely link up the name and phone number. Just email him and say you with a little bit of me we are changing the wine world whether they like it or not.